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Neckties (or four-in-hands) start out as rolls of fabric. In our
case, that fabric is 100% silk. The fabric is spread flat on a table
and a cutting pattern is laid on top. This pattern is laid out on
the bias, i.e. at a 45 degree angle. Neckties are cut on the
bias so that they hang properly and retain their shape.
There are two-way fabrics and one-way fabrics. With a two-way fabric,
like a polka-dot or a stripe, there is no up or down, the design
looks the same regardless. Consequently, two-way fabrics can be
cut both ways, which leads to a better yield (the number of ties
you get from a given amount of yardage). One-way fabrics, as the
name implies, can only be cut one way, otherwise the design would
be upside-down. (Take our Sharks
tie for example. On the tie, all the sharks are upright. But if
you flipped the fabric around, all the sharks would be upside down
- they’d look like they were dead.) As a result, one-way designs
produce lower yields.
Most neckties are comprised of three pieces: The front blade (also
called the apron), the tail (also called the under blade) and a
small piece called the neck gusset that connects the other two.
Inside the necktie is the lining. The lining is what gives the necktie
its shape since the silk fabric is wrapped around the lining. (By
the way, those stripes you occasionally see on the lining? Well,
they have to do with weight, not quality. So if you see six stripes,
it doesn't necessarily mean you have a quality tie, just one with
a heavy lining.)
Now at either end of the tie, you have the tipping.
Tipping is simply a finishing touch very much like the lining you
might see in a suit jacket (but don't confuse it with the lining
in a tie, which, as you now know, is not only different, but also
hidden). The tipping is there to cover up the work below and give
each end a clean look. And if a designer's name is woven into the
tipping for branding purposes, it's called custom tipping. (If you
don’t already know, our tipping has a little message hidden
up under the two folds of the front blade.)
A well-made tie has a special stitch (usually hidden) that runs
the entire length of the tie. This slip-stitch allows the
tie to stretch slightly and thus tolerate the stress caused by frequent
tying and untying. Better ties will also have bar tacks, noticeable
stitching at both ends that keep the two sides together. Finally
a decent tie will have a keeper of some sort—this is what
holds the tail in place behind the front. The best ties, Lee Allison
among them, will often have self-loops – this means that
the keepers are made from the silk fabric itself.
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